The temple at Goa Lawah is one of the
nine directional temples, the Kahyangan jagat, and as such is afforded
an elevated status among the island’s Hindus. It is a place of
pilgrimage, ritual and ceremonies and, despite its small size, can
attract so many devotees that the beach across the road functions as a
vast waiting area supported by throngs of vendors selling drinks and
food. The visiting Balinese will often arrive in buses or convoys of
motorcycles and cars, but fortunately the administrators are aware of
the potential congestion and have allocated parking land and the slip
road in front of the temple remains car, but not vendor, free.
At excessively busy times, the outer
courtyard functions not only as a place of gathering but also for
pre-ceremonial preparations, activities that would normally be
undertaken in the inner courtyard. As every Balinese Hindu family must
perform Nyegara Gunung, the closing ritual of the post-cremation rite of
Memukur, visitors have a high chance of seeing a quite intimate family
ceremony throughout the year. Situated on east coast road 35 kilometers
north of Sanur, Goa Lawah is easy to find. Goa Lawah is thought to have
been built by Mpu Kuturan, as indicated in the chronicle of Bendesa Mas;
it was however, Nirartha who meditated there and established it as a
directional temple.
The temple itself underwent quite
significant renovation about six years ago with the red brick replaced
with more hardwearing black volcanic rock, and while it is does not
evoke the same emotions as say Uluwatu or Besakih, that, it seems, for
visitors is not its main draw. The temple is built on an embankment and
around a deep, central cave that is home to the millions of bats that
provides its popular name. While in the cave the bats are considered
holy and are protected, at their dusk mass exodus they relinquish this
protection until they return.
The bats, however, are not the only
inhabitant of the huge cave since it is believed Naga Basuki, the
serpent who maintains the earth’s balance, is said to live in the
depths. The local guides attest to frequently seeing 3-4 meter long
pythons living in holes in the rock face. It is said that the cave also
has an elaborate tunnel leading to Besakih, although due to Naga Basuki
no one is willing to explore this legend. Within the temple there are
several symbolic nods to the great beast, including a quite spectacular
gold serpent atop a shrine sited next to the imposing 11-tier meru. A
small entrance fee is payable, sarongs and sashes are available and so
are quite knowledgeable local guides. The high level of activity at the
temple, its bats and the ease of access make this a popular and
worthwhile few hours.
source : bali daily
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