December 19, 2012

0 I love Bali: Hallelujah, Bali

When visiting Bali, you might be interested in learning some Balinese or Indonesian words, so you can break the ice with the locals and feel more at home. Learning other people’s tongue is always appreciated, at least in a humorous kind of way, especially when you muddle the pronunciation, because effort is more noble than getting the meaning of the words right. For example, “you speak my language” has much more implication than its linguistic content, doesn’t it? 

I would imagine that you would have no problem with basic Bahasa Indonesia, such as selamat pagi (good morning), apa kabar (how are you?), saya mau makan (I want to eat) and so on. Those who are more linguistically adventurous might have learned some Balinese, having understood that every word comes in a set of three forms of usage, in service of the Balinese caste system. And you would be right in thinking that it is safer to learn the high level, the more refined Balinese words, to avoid offending people, and for the benefit of humility achieved by lowering one self before others. 

So, swastiastu (may you be well), matur suksma (thank you), napi gatra (how are you) and so on are now part of your Balinese vocabulary, to be tested on native speakers. If you happen to like the Balinese language more than you thought and find yourself studying it to a high level of proficiency, you could be, in the not so distant future, teaching it to the Balinese, because the number of young Balinese speaking the language is steadily declining. By necessity (including that of national identity) they are encouraged to learn and speak Bahasa Indonesia, and the more economically advantageous languages, such as English, Japanese and Chinese. 

And due to social pressure, they must also learn the cryptic text message languages, spoken on cellular phones, Facebook and Twitter. The last nail in the Balinese language’s coffin would be the recently announced government decree to scrap the Balinese language from the mainstream school curriculum. In the meantime, the few words of Bahasa Indonesia or Basa Bali you have learned will be enough to please the locals and make your trip memorable. Another kind of greeting, the more familiar one (if you are from a Christian background) might come in handy while you are in Bali this Christmas, for you might very well meet some of the Christians of Bali. 

This small group of Balinese who have embraced Christianity, mainly Protestants and Catholics, are less well-known by visitors to the island, yet they are an important part of the rich social tapestry that is Bali. There are Christian churches in every major city in Bali, though their congregations are usually of mixed background, including native Balinese, indigenous and Chinese-Indonesians and Westerners living in these cities. But there are villages on the island where the population is predominantly Catholic or Protestant, such as the communities of Blimbingsari and Palasari in west Bali. 

The village of Blimbingsari sits in a beautiful rural setting. In the center of the village is the church, which incorporates elements of Balinese architecture such as a candi bentar (split gate) for the entrance, as well as a version of a kori agung (stone-topped gate) and the bale kulkul (split-log bell tower) in the corner of the courtyard. At first glance you might think it is a Balinese temple, until the cross on the roof tells you otherwise. Failing that, a wooden sign at the front of the building saying “Gereja Kristen Protestan di Bali” (Protestant Church in Bali), eliminates any doubt as to what kind of place it is. 

Five kilometers southeast of Blimbingsari is the Catholic village of Palasari. The church there is also set in a beautiful location with a manicured garden. The religious practices that occur in Blimbingsari and Palasari are an interesting mix of Christian and Balinese culture. Balinese traditional attire, offerings and dances are incorporated into the church’s identity. On Sundays, the congregation sits on chairs and sings hymns accompanied by gamelan music. For a Christian visiting Bali, a trip to the village of Blimbingsari or Palasari would certainly be a memorable one, especially when you already speak their language (religiously speaking). Hallelujah to that, and merry Christmas.

Ketut Yuliarsa a poet living in Ubud
source : bali daily

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